Ammonia-Free Hair Color: Ander Muro’s Advice on How To Get the Most Out of It
Advances in technology and developments in science not only extend to astrophysics and medicine, but they also help us to improve hair coloring. We’re speaking with our hair formulation, research, and development expert Ander Muro to uncover the secrets of our new ammonia-free hair dyes.
Keep reading to learn about their amazing colors and how they can help the well-being of hair, as well as care for the planet. In this interview, we’ll also gain a much better understanding of the system by which they operate and get a first-hand glimpse into how hair coloring of the future will works, with innovative products like Revlonissimo Color Sublime™.
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Revlon: Nice to meet you, Ander. What a pleasure! Let’s start at the beginning, in order to fully understand the important terms we’re speaking about today. Can you briefly explain what ammonia-free coloring is?
Ander: Permanent coloring needs an alkalizing agent to help open the cuticle, so that the pigments can penetrate the hair fiber. Traditionally, this alkalizer was always ammonia, a great tool which hairdressers can use to achieve perfect gray coverage. However, even though ammonia is effective and safe, we understand that some hairdressers and clients prefer to avoid it, mainly because of its unpleasant smell. Our alternative in Revlonissimo Color Sublime™ is ethanolamine, a less volatile molecule, which is therefore easier on the nose.
Revlon: So how does ammonia-free coloring differ from coloring that does contain ammonia? Is one better than the other?
Ander: As I mentioned above, ammonia is a great tool for achieving perfect coverage, and has been used safely in hairdressing for decades. In fact, Revlon Professional ammonia products (like any cosmetic product) are subject to strict safety studies before they are launched on the market. Their ammonia content always meets the cosmetics industry’s regulations. Revlon Professional offers both ammonia and ammonia-free products to give the hairdresser freedom of choice.
Revlon: How does Revlonissimo Color Sublime™ work? What technology does it use?
Ander: Inspired by nature, Revlonissimo Color Sublime™ is a 100% vegan hair color that combines professional results with sustainability. Its extra-nourishing formula respects the hair structure for long-lasting color that is full of life, with sublime color results. To achieve this, it uses a technology with naturally-derived ingredients: free from ammonia, silicones, and mineral oil. Its technology is the Dual Action System, which uses cold-pressed vegan oils. This pressing method is an effective way to obtain natural oils, while minimizing environmental impact.
Revlon: And what are the newest ingredients? What do they do to the hair?
Ander: One of the main new ingredients are the cold-pressed vegan oils, which are present in both the dye and the developer, creating the Dual Action System. In the dye, the ammonia-free formula is combined with a variety of oxidation pigments and cosmetic ingredients—including tiger nut, macadamia, and almond oils1. In the developer cream, coconut oil1 penetrates the hair to nourish it from within, while sunflower oil1 coats the hair fiber to fully develop intense color. The two formulas work in perfect harmony for deep color that nourishes the hair fiber.
Revlon: Hair products are changing in today’s modern world. Is Revlonissimo Color Sublime™ sustainable and eco-friendly?
Ander: Consumers are becoming increasingly informed and more demanding in terms of a commitment to sustainability and transparency, areas in which we at Revlon Professional are investing more and more. One example is the launch of Revlonissimo Color Sublime™, a vegan hair color that uses cold-pressed oils. This product is presented in recycled and recyclable packaging, using 60% less plastic and 25% less paper. In terms of transparency, Revlon Professional has developed a glossary of ingredients to provide detailed information, a tool that helps hairdressers by reinforcing their technical knowledge.
Revlon: So, it is very important for hair salons to offer sustainable products, but why? Do you think this can help make a difference for the environment?
Ander: We are constantly seeing new studies from the scientific community warning us that, with each passing day, we are losing an opportunity to stop global warming. It is never too late to raise awareness and start changing our habits to protect the planet. Both the brands (with the products we offer) and hairdressers (with the products they choose for their clients) play a key role in helping to reverse this situation. Small gestures count and we want to help hairdressers to be a source of inspiration and an example of sustainability for their clients.
Revlon: Speaking of Revlonissimo Color Sublime™, what does its color chart look like?
Ander: It is a compact range of 48 permanent shades that can be mixed together, allowing the hairdresser to customize their results without taking up a huge space in their salon. The color formulas, with up to 10 pigments per shade, combine rich, deep color while maintaining the Revlonissimo identity.
Revlon: As hair professionals, which clients should we offer this type of coloring to? What other ammonia-free products are available?
Ander: We believe that today’s salons must have all the needs covered of their increasingly demanding and informed clients, which is why Revlon Professional offers both ammonia and ammonia-free products to give hairdressers freedom of choice. For example, we have recently launched Revlonissimo Color Excel Gloss, a new acid and ammonia-free coloring range to tone blonde hair without lightening the base.
Revlon: Compared to other color formulations, what sets Revlonissimo Color Sublime™ apart from the rest?
Ander: There are ammonia-free dyes on the market, but not all are permanent and some contain mineral oil. With the new Revlonissimo Color Sublime™, we’ve gone beyond ammonia-free hair color, replacing mineral oil with 100% natural, cold-pressed oils. The new formula is completely vegan and is also silicone-free. And, of course, it is dermatologically-tested.
Revlon: Do you think that Revlonissimo Color Sublime™ (and ammonia-free coloring in general) is the future of hair color? Or are there still new upcoming areas of research that can potentially optimize our services in salons?
Ander: Revlonissimo is a modern color range and a varied portfolio, with 25 years of experience. We adapt to changes in society and in hairdressing. That’s why we offer solutions for every hairdresser, with or without ammonia, because we want to reach everyone. We are constantly researching to develop the best technologies and services, ensuring exceptional results. The focus of our Research and Development team is always to innovate to help hairdressers to elevate their professional services.
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Revlon: Thank you so much for your time and knowledge, Ander. We appreciate you sharing all of this interesting and important information, so that we can better understand what ammonia-free coloring is and how Revlonissimo Color Sublime™ can help us grow as hair care professionals.
 Cold pressed